Hallberg 29 mainsail traveller renewal | grootschoot overloop vernieuwen
The HR 29 is originally fitted wit a Pfeiffer size II system. Mine lasted for 38 years now, but the thing was just worn out a little. Still functioning though.
 |
| the old Pfeiffer system 2 |
 |
| Worn traveller parts |
How it started
To be honest, it started with searching for a small leak under the front seating. As you may know, I've renewed the full cockpit teak in 2018. I then already discovered that the shape of the hull beneath the front seat isn't great. Mine is from 1983, from the first series (I don't know if these are called mark I..?). Water is not draining there sufficiently, so there is often a little water standing there. It gets muddy over the years a little. When renewing the seats, I used Sikaflex to close all the small holes. Beginners mistake.. One tiny spot was leaking last seasons. And I don't like those drops on my spiffy upholstery!
So a took the seat off, which wasn't too easy. It was really fitted well if I may say so :-)
 |
| ceiling Hallberg 29 |
On one side, the ceiling piece caught some water. But still in good shape. I made it watertight with epoxy.
Ordering parts
After some looking around, and studying the Pfeiffer catalogue , I had found the rights parts to order.
You can choose for a 2:1 or 3:1 or even 4:1 drive. The original one had none. I went for the 3:1 system, helping already a lot and not getting too high above the seats.
These are the parts numbers I have used:
7761502 traveller
7770602 controller right
7770702 controller left
7460201 rails
I have ordered in Germany at Segelladen who have a really displayed all parts well.
Putting it together
After taking of the seating, I first had to repair all holes and spots. Drilling them, countersinking and then filling with West Epoxy 105/205 and a little high density filler.
 |
| filling old holes with epoxy |
After that, I could replace the seating and check whether the new system would fit. Well, it didn't fit quite nicely. The traveller would only just fit under the seat, but the controllers wouldn't. The best solution was to lower the teak beam under it by 15 mm. So I did. Using a milling machine and chisel. It took me about three hours to get it in the right and flat shape.
Maybe you're asking yourself: why didn't he take of the beam?? I would have if it were possible. But it is bolted from the inside, and the bolts are hidden behind the interior parts.
 |
| lowering the teak beam |
Under the beam, there is a metal piece. So the whole construction would still be sturdy after taking a piece of wood off.
Of course, replacing it with the same systems has it advantages. The holes for the bolts were in the right place. I ordered some new stainless 316 bolts and nuts, and mounted it with tef gel to prevent corrosion.
On the front side, I replaced the teak. A piece had broken off over the years apparently. But it covers the bolts an metal strip, so I made a new one.
 |
| old teak lining |
 |
| new mainsheet traveller system in place |
I will add some pictures of the new traveller in working condition. But job done for now, and soon she's ready to be launched for an new season.
 |
| the new traveller installed on my Hallberg 29 |
Added in May:
it's really a joy to work with the new Pfeiffer traveller 3:1. It works very well when tacking, even in strong winds. Happy with this job!
Go to the next post.
Great job Pieter!, on my HR29 the traveller was removed and the main sheet is attached to a D ring on the cockpit floor. Its ok but she has lost the ability to trim the sheet position. I am also in the Neterlands and would very much like to get in touch to exchange some ideas. Do you still have Breezy day?
BeantwoordenVerwijderenYes, it's still in my possession. Happy to share thoughts on your plan.
VerwijderenWell in my boat the traveller was removed, and the main sheet attaches to a D ring on the cockpit floor, its ok for cruising but there is no possibility of adjustment of the sheet to windward/leeward. I wonder if you had put in the 3:1 with cleats on the traveller (5th from the top on the pfeiffer catalogue image) if the re would still be the need to cut the teak block, or if it would have dropped in without modifications. Second question, the traveller distance with the blocks on the sides (3:1 vs nothing) is even more limited.. Do you still find usefull to have this adjustment capability? What supply do you use for SS316 quality metric screws (and screws in general!) Thanks! Bruno
VerwijderenI chose for the other 3:1 because of the smaller risk of hurting yourself when entering the boat. Further, the traveller itself also needed more space, it would get stuck under the seating there if I hadn’t lowered the teak block.
VerwijderenDo I still find it usefull to have this adjustment capability? Yes, very much. I questioned myself if it would be useful to cut the teak bench and extend the rail over the full width of the cockpit. But in my opinion that wouldn’t be the case. It only would allow you to pull the beam beyond the center point when sailing upwind, and I think that doesn’t add speed or sharper sailing. This season I’ve replaced my mainsail with a new Elvström. That does make some difference in upwind sailing, the shape is better, the airflow as well.
My favorite supplier for 316 is RVS Paleis.
Ok! Thanks for the reasoning explanation. There is no way around lowering the height of the teak beam as i understand, to avoid the traveller getting stuck under the companionway seat. My point of using the other type of 3:1 was to avoid having to mill out the side seats. I get it that it does improve sailing performance in a significative way (vs a fixed sheet point on the cockpit bottom). I have to evaluate this after I get the boat here in the Netherlands next year, as i might have other issues like the main sheet rubbing against a handrail that was also added to the cockpit (if angled to reach the original traveller attachment). Thanks for the RVS tip! ...To be continued!.
Verwijderen